RX/RS/Apex Jackshaft Bearing Removal and Replacement

We had a customer's secondary clutch do something bad to the jackshaft bearing grease seal on an '04 RX yesterday. Bearing looked OK, but it still needed to be replaced.

First pic is the bearing (PTO side) after washing with Brake cleaner. Remove the C-clip in the picture and then start on the chain case side.

Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the brake caliper in to the chain case. Lay the caliper on top of the air box (intercooler in this case) and then move on to the emergency brake assembly. Remove the two Allen head bolts as pictured and place next to the caliper.

A C clip holds on the brake rotor. Remove the clip and keyway from the shaft.

The collar in the above picture is held in place by a #25 Torx head set screw. back the screw out a few turns and then pull the collar off of the shaft. if your sled has reverse, disconnect the shift lever from the chain case and remove the 10mm bolt from the chain case cover.

Remove the cover from the chain case.

Remove the chain tensioner, top/bottom gears and chain. You're done on this side for now.

You'll need some kind of tool to hold the locking collar in place when starting to remove the bearing. Pictured is an old Ohlins shock wrench which works well. Reach in behind the bearing and hold the collar in place with the tool. Put the secondary back on the shaft backwards, and rotate counter-clockwise.

A few good taps with a rubber mallet (or hammer and block of wood) should pop the shaft out of the chain case.

Use the shaft as a 'ram' type puller to remove the PTO side bearing. 3-4 good tugs on the shaft and the bearing should pop out. You can heat the bearing seat if necessary to make removing it a little easier.

Jackshaft on the bench with the nut & collar as they come out of the sled. Bulkhead waiting on new bearing...

This is a pic of the collar, nut and new bearing on the shaft in the correct orientation. The bearing is tapered (note how the collar only fits flush in one direction). Double check that you have the bearing facing the right way before installing).

Locking nut on the shaft and then slide in from the clutch side.

Double check the bearing has the wider part of the taper facing out and then seat it in. The piece of aluminum pipe in the pictures is 2" O.D. Toss the bearing in the freezer (or leave it outside for 1/2 hour) and apply a little heat to the bearing seat and it should go in with a few easy taps.

Slide the collar over the shaft and get it started on the locking nut. Use the secondary (reversed) again and a shock wrench to tighten collar in place. Finally, install 'C' clip.

The recessed washer & spacer go on next. Recessed side of spacer goes against the bearing.

Button up the chain case, add oil and double check you alignment & offset.

This isn't a bad job to do if you're doing it on your own terms. If the sled gets to decide when it has to be changed, you're going to be in for a LOT more effort, and the bearing might be only one of the parts that you have to replace...

Totallyamaha is not responsible for any damages that these modifications may cause to your vehicle; any modifications are your responsibility if you choose to do so. We are providing information ONLY. Some of these modifications may VOID your warranty and that is your responsibility to look into. The Totallyamaha users have passed along most of the information found on this site. If you have any questions or concerns about anything on this site talk to your dealer before using any of the information. Totallyamaha will not be liable for any damages or personal injury from any modification performed from this site.